Mexican Chocolate Ice Cream

As much as I like Mexican chocolate, I've always preferred to nibble on a little piece rather than make hot chocolate with it, which is what it's most known for. The combination of dark chocolate, cinnamon, and coarse sugar is unusual and spectacular, but that should come as no surprise, since it was the Aztecs, after all, that gave chocolate to the world. They ought to have known a thing or two about what to do with the stuff. The Aztecs had adopted it from the Mayan Culture, and drinks made of chocolate combined with honey, nuts, seeds, and spices were used in rituals by priests and nobleman. Chocolate was so valued that it was even used as a currency. Naturally, the Spaniards fell in love with it (who wouldn't?), and upon taking it back to Spain, it became the official drink of the King. Europeans began preparing it with milk and sugar, and hot chocolate became all the rage.

This chocolate, with it's rustic and earthy appeal made for some incredible ice cream. If you're not familiar with it, you'll find it in the international aisle of most markets. It's sold under the name Abuelita or Ibarra, and comes packaged in boxes of discs that are made up of small triangles.

                    1 1/2 discs Mexican chocolate
                    2/3 cups sugar
                    4 large egg yolks
                    1 cup heavy cream
                    2 cups milk
           
Put the chocolate and cream in a large, heat-safe bowl. Set it over a saucepan of simmering water and stir occasionally until the chocolate has melted and is smooth. Remove the bowl from the heat and set a mesh strainer across the top.

In a medium saucepan, heat the milk and sugar over medium low heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar.

In a separate medium bowl, beat the egg yolks, then gradually add some of the warm milk-sugar mixture, whisking as you pour. Pour the warmed eggs back into the saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly until the custard is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Strain the custard into into the chocolate mixture and stir until smooth.

Set the bowl over a large bowl of ice water. Stir the custard until cool, then cover and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled (3 hours or overnight).

Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Makes about 1 quart.

Chipotle Pulled Pork Tacos

This delicious pork tenderloin cooked for seven long hours in the company of chipotle peppers, adobo sauce, sauteed onions and garlic, and a small, yet cheerful array of traditional Mexican spices. And like with many things that are not rushed, the outcome was outstanding. I love slow cooking because the house smells amazing all day, and the anticipation of the evening's meal builds and builds. It allows me to prolong the enjoyment of preparing a dish and celebrate it's various stages of development. First, the joy of choosing and assembling the ingredients. Then the aroma of the flavors coming together at their own pace with the great luxury of time. And finally, the promised moment of tasting that first bite, in hopes that it will be as good as the expectation my senses have shaped. And in this case, it was.

                    1-1 1/2 pound(s) pork tenderloin
                    1 tablespoon canned chipotle pepper in adobo sauce, minced
                    1 tablespoon adobo sauce
                    2-3 tablespoons olive oil
                    1 small to medium onion, chopped
                    2 garlic cloves, sliced
                    2 teaspoons cumin
                    2 teaspoons dried oregano
                    2 bay leaves
                    1 cup fresh tomatoes, chopped (or canned)
                    2 cups chicken broth
                    1 teaspoon kosher salt

Saute the onions and garlic in the olive oil over medium heat in a dutch oven or skillet until the onion is translucent. If using a skillet, transfer the onions and garlic to a slow cooker.

Add the tomatoes, broth, chipotle, adobo sauce, salt, spices, and pork to the onion mixture and cook for at least 6 hours.

Gently pull apart the pork before serving - it should come apart with little effort.

Serve with corn tortillas, cilantro, and lime. Also good over polenta or rice, or in a sandwich with a soft bun. Even better the next day.
                   
Makes 4-6 servings.

Charred Tomatillo Salsa with Homemade Tortilla Chips

I am, by nature, a red salsa maker. I always have red tomatoes on the vine around, and consequently they have been my default for fresh salsa for years. But recently tomatillos have been on my mind. They won my heart while making John Ash's "White Bean Chicken Chili" a couple of weeks ago, and since then I've been thinking that I need to work on my relationship with these relatives of my beloved tomatoes. I find them quite charming with their curious husks and beautiful bright green color. And I've always loved green salsa - making it at home just doesn't occur to me. I'm a creature of habit and the salsa I make is red. This weekend, though, in an effort to break out of my comfy, cozy, little red salsa box, I decided to make a "salsa verde".

The tomatillos release their flavor when their skins are charred and their flesh is softened a bit. I put them in the broiler for just under ten minutes, turning once and they were perfect. Then I realized I didn't have any tortilla chips in the pantry so... (ahem) I made some. It was my first time, and honestly, they tasted far better than any store-bought brand I've ever liked. And they were so easy - I really believe I'll think twice before buying them next time I find myself standing in the chip aisle at the market. 

I adapted a recipe from Martha Stewart (I know what you're thinking...Martha Stewart for Mexican salsa?) Yes. Martha Stewart for anything. She doesn't disappoint, people. 

If you prefer jalapenos, you can certainly substitute them for the serranos. I like my salsa spicy, but if you like milder salsa, you can use two serranos instead of three. Also, I think next time I'll try using shallots instead of the onion. And then there's the mint. I kind of feel that it was "eh". Not sure I'll include it next time, but definitely worth a try. You might love it.

 

          2 pounds tomatillos, husks removed, rinsed, and patted dry
          1 cup onion, cut into 1-inch pieces 
          3 serrano chiles, coarsely chopped
          2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
          3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
          2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
          1 1/2 teaspoons coarse salt

Preheat broiler with rack set in upper position. Place tomatillos on a rimmed baking sheet and broil, turning once, until skins are blistered and charred, about 10 minutes. Remove from broiler. Transfer baking sheet to a wire rack and let cool on baking sheet.

Meanwhile, place onion, chiles, lime juice, cilantro, mint, and salt in the bowl of a food processor. Quarter tomatillos and add them, along with any accumulated juices from the baking sheet, to the bowl of the food processor; pulse just until combined.

Transfer salsa to refrigerator and let chill before serving. Salsa can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to one week.

Makes about 4 cups.

To make homemade tortilla chips:

          6 corn tortillas
          1/4 cup canola oil
          salt to taste

Cut the tortillas in half, then in quarters, then in eighths.

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the tortilla chips, twelve at a time. Fry for about 15-20 seconds, then turn and leave another 10-15 seconds more or until golden.

Pat dry to remove excess oil.

Makes 4 dozen chips.

 

Adapted from Martha Stewart.

Arroz con Leche (y Coco, y Canela!)

What does one do when they need to find a use for the leftover coconut milk in the fridge? Substitute 1 cup of it for the milk in arroz con leche, of course! At least that's what occurred to me. And Dan will be one lucky husband/babydaddy when he comes home tonight to find it hanging out on the top shelf. In the exact same place the leftover coconut milk was this morning.

Arroz con leche (or rice pudding in english speaking parts of the world) is incredibly easy and quick to make. I did this in about 45 minutes this afternoon, with very little effort, and it turned out beautifully. The coconut essence is subtle, yet very much there, and the cinnamon imparts a lovely, pale rose color. I don't like it too sweet, so I only used 1/3 cup of sugar. If you find it's not sweet enough for your liking, you can definitely add more.

                         1 cup white rice
                         2 cups water
                         1 cup milk
                         1 cup unsweetened coconut milk
                         1/3 cup sugar
                         1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Bring the water to a boil, add the rice, and cook on low until most of the water is absorbed, about 20 minutes. Add the milk and cook, stirring frequently about ten minutes. Then add the sugar and cinnamon and cook until the rice is very soft and the milk is almost completely absorbed (another 10-15 minutes).

Makes 6 servings.

Adapted from How to Cook Everything, Mark Bittman

The. Best. Tortilla Soup.

I've always loved tortilla soup. It's one of my favorite things about being in Mexico. I'm not sure what I enjoy more -  the combination of flavors and textures or the beautiful presentation of all the garnishes when they bring it to the table. Putting it together before you eat it feels special. Unfortunately, it's never that good when I order it here in the States. Typically it's just chicken broth or a flavorless tomato soup on the sweeter side leaving much to be desired in terms of fresh toppings. It's been raining all week, which is unusual for this part of the world, and soups have been making us happy and keeping us warm inside. The pasilla chiles are a must, as they lend a rich, smoky flavor that makes this soup.

                              2 tablespoons olive oil

                              1/2 large onion, chopped

                              2 large garlic cloves, chopped

                              6 tomatoes on the vine, quartered

                              3 dried Pasilla chiles, rinsed, stemmed, seeded

                              1 tablespoon chili powder

                              1 teaspoon dried oregano, crumbled

                              4 cups low sodium vegetable broth

                              2 cups cooked, shredded chicken (optional)

                              2 corn tortillas cut in 1/2" strips and toasted until crisp
                              1 chopped or sliced avocado
                              coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
                              crumbled cotija cheese
                              creme fraiche or crema mexicana

Heat oil in heavy large pot over medium heat. Add onion and garlic. Cover and cook until onion is tender, stirring occasionally, about 5-10 minutes. Add tomatoes, chiles, broth, chili powder and oregano. Cover and simmer until vegetables are very tender, about 25 minutes. Puree in blender to desired consistency and then return to pot. Stir in shredded chicken (optional).

Ladle soup into bowls. Top with tortilla strips, avocado, cilantro, cheese and a dollop of cream.

Makes 2 large, or 4 small servings.

Adapted from recipe in Bon Apetit, 2000.